The five dots on every bottle of Seckinger wine stand for the trio of brothers, Lukas, Philipp, and Jonas Seckinger. The brothers’ wines have some producers in southern Pfalz scratching their heads, meanwhile Germany’s new generation of sommeliers are sipping gleefully. Was geht? Here’s a biodynamic Pfalz producer taking cues from the natural Chablis and Jura ouillé, as it digs into the terroir of their historic vineyards of mostly red sandstone The result are rakish, outstanding wines like this Grauburgunder, bone dry and grown on limestone. Smooth and enticing, the wine offers notes of white cherry, quince, pear, and subtle spice. Bright and refreshing, a focused mineral backbone, it’s a standout sipper for just about any meal.